Janke 1st MRB

Moved to the right section and changed the title because my grammar Nazi senses found a disturbance in the force. I've been looking for it in stores, but none have it, and I can't get it on Steam because I have on credit card, but I do want it. I've always wanted a WWII game with a German campaign, and I've heard RO2 has one.

Prophunt, awesome!

I remember PC Gamer reviewing the RAT7, they gave it glowing reviews, 90/100. The thing looked insane, it all came apart and went back together in these weird-ass ways to fit your preference and gaming style. It did seem a bit pricey, if I remember, but it looked amazing.

Dum dee dah dee dah, and roses are red~!

I will be one of the few in the gaming world to stand by Microsoft mice, I've had my Sidewinder X5 for nearly 2 years now, and it's been great. Microsoft and Razer are really the only 2 companies I'd consider for my next mouse.

A friend of mine used it to steal WiFi from his neighbours, AFAIK to jack someone's WiFi it's some simple 4 lines in terminal for a WEP code, my friend wrote it down just for the hell of it.

Then if anything's causing the crash it's your sound card drivers, try updating them. Most likely they'll be Realtek, but it'd be good to double check.

We've been over the Primos guys before, they don't hack, they're just better than you.

Went to the CNE on Saturday, got myself a bunch of games for $25; Roller Coaster Tycoon 1 and 2 complete, Medieval II Total War and Zoo tycoon, and for $30 I got this: Soyuz Sovietski, Comrades!

I'm sorry, you want reliable pings on a card under $25. If you're looking for longevity AND performance, I'd look more in the $25-$50 range for cheap ones. A cheap card may last you reliable for a short while, but after a while your performance will degrade, you'll either get high pings again, or you'll begin getting random disconnects. However, for $14 I was able to get a 50 foot cord and run it from my router to my comp, and wired is always the most reliable. Depending on who you live with/where your computer is in relation to the router, buying a long cord (25-100 feet, depending) and discreetly running it to your computer would be the cheapest, most reliable, and longest-lasting option.

Kris with a K, people used to specify because they knew several Chrises, but I was the only one who spelled it with a K. Other than that online I've been known as F-Tang and Krazee, as my name in most things is either F-Tang Krazee or Krazee9. Aside from that I don't really have a nickname.

97 youth and counsellors out of 580 have been shot at a Labour Party Sponsored youth camp on the island of Utøya. They've confirmed the man, Anders Behring Breivik, is a radical right-wing Christian Conservative who did this because he hates the current Labour Party in power in Norway. The police apparently have him in custody.

Alt-Tab is the generally used method of minimizing programs, as it swaps from centring on one program/window to another. Some people, however, just have on luck minimizing, I've known people who have better computers than mine who can't minimize half of the games they have, whereas I have absolutely no problem. It's hit-and-miss, you just may not be able to minimize properly, but try Alt-Tabbing and see if that works better.

I'd much prefer the second choice. Again, the graphics card isn't amazing, generally with NVidia it's at x60 that it starts to perform well, with ATI it's usually x770. It'll run DoD fine, should be able to handle most games, but won't get amazing framerates on high settings on more modern games. Still, I much prefer it over your other choice. Now the only qualm I have is Wal-Mart, but that's just my opinion on the retailer, it just means the staff there won't be able to tell you shit and you'll get no service from the store for any problems, which means any warranties are manufacturer warranties, and those require you ship your PC to them or bring it to a local service centre, which sometimes there are none of.

Indeed, i5 or i7 personally, and preferably from the Sandy Bridge set for both or the Nehalem set for i7. Also, what's the price of this computer? It being "decent" is kind of contingent on it being around $600 or less, and that $600 is me being a bit generous, I've seen much better priced at $500-$700, as well as priced out better for similar prices.

>Wal-Mart This is my first issue with it. Wal-Mart is not very well known for selling computers, in fact, they often have a very limited selection and very limited knowledge of computers. I'd look for, if you're going to get a prebuilt, something at BestBuy. I'm personally no fan of AMD, but the processor seems okay. The graphics card is likely integrated into the motherboard, and while it should play DoD fine, it likely won't perform so well on more graphically-intensive games. Everything else looks okay, but I'd spring for a better graphics card. Granted, this is a pre-built from Wal-Mart, and personally I won't get a pre-built, I'd build it myself, you'll get better bang for your buck and better customization to your needs if you build it yourself.

Got this game a while ago, and it is pretty damn awesome, and it comes with a free copy for a friend too. The soundtrack is pretty kickass too, and is so cheap there's no reason to not buy the soundtrack edition. I can't wait until they start adding to it, I think they said they're going to do a co-op mode soon.

I've noticed the forums are crashing more often than a drunk driver recently, what's up with them?

As I just mentioned, it's listing your DL speed on speedtest with a little b, meaning megaBIT, which is 0.125 MB, or megaBYTEs, which is 12.5% of a megaBIT. They don't lie, you get exactly what speedtest tells you you do, because it's a different measurement than what you think. You pay for a 16Mbps connection, a 16 megaBIT per second connection, which means the fastest in megaBYTES per second you'll be able to download is 2MBps. The line's max is what it is, depending on age/distance/whatever it becomes slower, but it's not a percentage of your line's max that you get, it's a different unit of measurement you're reading. For instance, I get 4.5Mbps, on average, but I pay for 7. Because the lines in my area are 70 years old and Bell is only now beginning to replace them, I can't get 7, the old line doesn't support it (or Bell is being a jackass). Because they're replacing the lines though, and re-working the system, I'm supposed to be getting faster speeds within the next week. Remember, you're reading a different unit of measurement, MegaBIT (Mb) versus MegaBYTE (MB).

I think you guys are misinterpreting what your ISPs are telling you, they sell internet service in megaBITS per second, and almost all applications show download rates in megaBYTES per second, Mbps vs MBps, the capitalization of the B makes a difference, lower base b is bit, uppercase B is byte The difference in the two is one megaBIT is 125 kiloBYTES, or 0.125 megaBYTES. Therefore, you get exactly what you pay for, 5 megabits, which is around 600 kilobytes. Here's my result, this translates to about 0.525 MB/s.

Logitech's G35 is a good 7.1 channel wired one, I personally use the G930 7.1 channel wireless one and haven't had a problem with it, it gets great range, you can use it while charging it, and games and music(in 2-channel mode) sound amazing.

I remember seeing this last year sometime, it was pretty awesome.

Have you tried it in another computer to see if it works on that one? If it does it's a software problem, if it doesn't you need a new headset.

When you muted it, did you mute it physically on the mic or in software?